Textile and Apparel Industry: behind the events

Carl Denton's true and false "internationalization"

On March 16, 2011, the CCTV program exposed the famous domestic brand “Kardan Denton,” which was actually a genuine domestic brand. It also stated that it was playing a “false foreign brand” and demanded prices of thousands of dollars. Ten thousand yuan has seriously jeopardized the legitimate rights and interests of Chinese consumers. According to CCTV, at present, "Europe's top men's wear brand" Karlanton, which has set up counters in many domestic airports and high-end shopping malls, is actually a registered trademark in Italy. Caldanta is just a personally registered Italian trademark. The history of overseas registration is as long as 13 years. There are no stores abroad, and Italy is just a place for brand registration.

Behind: Actually, overseas brands owned by non-foreigners such as Caldanta are a common phenomenon in the apparel industry. For example, the famous wedding dress brand “VERA WANG” in the United States was actually created by the Chinese people, even the familiar CATELO (crocodile). For overseas brands, their brand owners are also Chinese.

International brand management not only depends on where the sales area is, but also on how many aspects of its production and business activities involve internationalization. Therefore, many people who have stood up to Kaltendon believe that for many years Chinese clothing brands have been trying hard to achieve internationalization, but most of the companies eventually become manufacturers of big international brands. But Kaltendon is able to occupy a world in the high-end clothing battlefield. To a large extent, it is precisely because of its adherence to the international industry's operating model from the product design, quality pursuit, terminal sales, visual communication and other series. The name is difficult to survive in the high-end market where international big names are gathered.

From another point of view, a group of so-called “false foreign brands” represented by Carl Denton is also a real internationalized practitioner of Chinese brand clothing. With the increasing discourse power of the Chinese garment industry, the so-called “false ocean” "Brand" will become history.

Vanke Espin encounters "2012"

At the beginning of December 2011, the "Vancl's Something's" blog broke the news that Vanke Eslite had a very serious stockpile due to the "crazy expansion product line." At present, the number of dead inventory is at least over a billion yuan. While the wages of personnel are at least 500 million yuan each year, the accumulated deficit in 4 years may exceed 2 billion yuan. Although Vanke Eslite denied the above-mentioned material, the company has indeed experienced frequent occurrences recently. As early as May of this year, it was reported that it would go to the United States in the fourth quarter of this year's IPO. It was originally scheduled to submit application documents after November 21, and it failed to follow the timetable. In addition, Vanke's frequent exposure of layoffs, Xu Xiaohui, the former president's assistant, and Zhang Xiaojun, former vice presidents, have left. To make matters worse, Wu Sheng, who is popular in the country as a “foreign subject” planner and vice president, also left Vanke. According to reports, he entered the Jingdong Mall.

Behind: The news about Vanke's listing has been reported as early as October of this year. Recently, due to investors' differences in the valuation of Vanke's listed companies, Vanke still hasn't finalized the listing time. In addition, changes in the high-level structure of the guests have also caused the industry to question. In 2011, it was the year of the development bottleneck of Eslite. It was still unknown whether it could survive.

At present, China's e-commerce model is almost always "capital-driven". This growth model is not healthy. Regardless of whether the capital market will improve in the future, this model needs to be completely changed. From a capital-driven model to a business-focused model, e-commerce revenue comes not from investors but from users, from how much value it provides externally and how to control costs internally.

"Jeanswest House," an uproar on May 23, 2011, "Jeanswest House," the Chinese and English flags hung on the exterior wall of the fourth school building of Tsinghua University, another wall hanging a nameplate to introduce Jeanswest brand. On May 24th, a student at Tsinghua University used a mobile phone to photograph the nameplate of the “Jeanswest Tower” on the exterior wall of the fourth school building of Tsinghua University. This photo was then quickly republished on the Internet, causing fierce controversy: Who has the “qualified” crown? Tsinghua teaching building? Later, on the website of the Education and Education Association of Tsinghua University, a number of Tsinghua campus buildings, including the Tsinghua University School of Software, Tsinghua University's Biomedicine Hall, and the new museum of the Department of Automotive Engineering of Tsinghua University, have clearly set their titles. The amount of donation. The highest title fee is the ball hall. The amount of the title donation needs 138 million yuan, which can be called the "X Ball Stadium"; the lowest title fee is the Tsinghua University China Design Museum, and the title donation amount is only To be worth 4 million yuan, it can be called "Tsinghua University × × × × China Design Museum." The staff of the Tsinghua University Education Association explained that the construction status of the titles is different. Some of them have already been built, and some of them need to be injected with donated funds for construction.

Behind: Behind these turmoil, what can't be missed is the first floor of the Jeanswest Tower, which conveys the words “Jeanswest Tower” on the outdoor wall, but there is a note next to it: Jeanswest is a leader in the casual wear market and always takes responsibility for its social responsibility. We spared no effort to give back to society and contribute to the national education. In fact, university titles have precedents, such as the "Yifu Building" in many areas, but these titles did not cause social dislike. "Jeanswest House" caused so much social controversy, had to cause the apparel industry people to ponder, the clothing brand who recruited who? Of course, the main focus of social controversy is still the issue of "door to door". The Chinese clothing brand made so much money and donated so much money, but it did not get the social recognition and social respect it deserves. Why?

In recent years, China's garment industry has made rapid progress. In various clothing exhibitions, various fashion weeks, and various fashion shows, people can see star supermodels and geisha feather clothing. The scenes are impressive and the Chinese clothing brand Can go to the Great Wall for a show, in the Great Hall of the people to develop the cloth, even in France, Italy's top fashion hall also has a Chinese clothing brand figure, but the Chinese clothing brand name is not on the Tsinghua University teaching building. why?

It is undeniable that Chinese clothing brands have achieved a certain level of recognition within the apparel industry, but they still have a long way to go in cultivating consumer culture on a larger scale.

After the Meibang apparel and electricity supplier folded their sand, in October 2011, Meibang Apparel announced that it stopped e-commerce business. Smith Barney explained in the announcement that the previous period's financial risks were uncontrollable. This is mainly due to the lack of control of the financial risks in the company's internal staff. This is a key factor in Smith Barney's efforts to retreat in the area of ​​e-commerce. However, the problem is that the e-commerce transformation that was originally aimed at saving costs has eventually become a "suction trap". Experts in the industry pointed out that the lack of professional guidelines and the need to go it alone is the key to leading to cost out-of-control problems in the transformation process of most traditional corporate e-commerce.

Behind: According to the “Recall” announcement of Smith Barney, the investment in e-commerce in the early stage of Smith Barney was mainly staff salaries, technology development costs, logistics and distribution costs, and advertising and promotion costs. The total investment exceeds RMB 60 million is not sufficient. But the actual benefits that e-commerce brings to Smith Barney are very low. This phenomenon is not a case of Smith Barney, and many traditional companies that have made headlines in e-commerce have similar experiences. This is mainly because most traditional enterprises hope to fully retain their independence during the transformation of e-commerce, but they lack the necessary technology and management accumulation to support the establishment of e-commerce model. Therefore, the blind investment and the hard work of capital are the most likely outcomes. There was a run-in against the wall and the budget continued to overrun.

Disarmament Designer of the Dior On February 25, 2011, Christian Dior (Kristin Dior), the famous French clothing company, announced that it suspended its chief designer due to John Galliano's alleged racist remarks. All positions. For a time, Dior “Gagliano”'s move set off a great uproar in the world fashion industry. Who can become the new chief designer of Dior has been a topic of interest in the global fashion world for a long time. During the Spring/Summer Paris Fashion Week 2012, Dior had announced that he would formally appoint a new creative director in a matter of weeks, but the news was as long as several months. According to reports, Dior suspended negotiations with the most promising designer, Marc Jacobs, and the two sides have reached an impasse.

The focus of the dispute between Dior and Marc Jacobs is that Marc Jacobs hopes to join Dior with his own design team at LV. The LVMH Group believes that this will put LV in an unfavorable situation that was previously considered to be likely to take over. Phoebe Philo, the LV designer, said that he would prefer to stay at Celine, so once Mark Jacob went to Dior, the position of LV's creative director became a problem.

Dior is currently looking for new creative director candidates, including Alexander Wang, Raf Simons and Jason Wu. Designer Riccardo Tisci is also thinking about it, although he himself has repeatedly stated that he does not want to give up Givenchy's work. Dior's position as the creative director of the job actually seems to have to wait for a while to see.

Behind: For a fashion brand, the brand image is above everything, and this is true. The 50-year-old Galliano has served as the chief designer of Dior for more than a decade, and has made great contributions to the development of Dior. He had few negative news before. However, Christian Dior announced for the first time that the love of this "love" will actually convey the brand's attitude of "zero tolerance" to any racially discriminatory speech and behavior.

Faced with increasingly fierce market competition, Dior faces a very serious form. With the concern of people regarding Dior's new head, the new head is naturally cautious. Obviously, determining the criteria for selecting successors is a top priority. However, the successor arrangement is not only to find a suitable new creative director, but also includes a design team that can work in harmony with the new creative director to ensure that the work is done with confidence. The change of positions of creative directors is not only the transfer of rights, but also the transfer of influence. In any case, the alternation between the old and the new brings a lot of uncertainty to the Dior brand.

Prada does not say "Chinese OEM"

In May 2011, when Prada was preparing for listing in Hong Kong, a report issued by its sponsor disclosed to the public the secret that Prada had a number of foundries in mainland China. . With the successful launch of the Prada brand in Hong Kong, the “Information on China's OEM industry chain”, which has been speculated by outsiders and considered highly secretive by luxury brands, has for the first time revealed the answer in the prospectus. Prada stated that its own factory manufactures most prototypes, most prototypes and some finished products, and the remaining production processes are outsourced to external manufacturers. "As of the end of 2011, most of our finished products were produced by external manufacturers."

Behind: It is reported that the output of external manufacturers in Prada reached 80% of the total product. In fact, as early as 2009, "Global Luxury Report" had disclosed that 60% of international luxury brands have their own production lines in China. "Made in China" is a dilemma between luxury brands in keeping the brand's mystery and financial control. However, industry insiders believe that Prada's foundry in mainland China was exposed and will not affect Prada's issue price. Because Prada's "factory" situation is a common phenomenon for luxury goods manufacturers. Prada's CEO also said that he does not mind letting consumers know that their products are Italian designs, and some are produced in China. With the rapid growth in the production and sales of luxury goods, the transition of luxury manufacturing to China is a selective and gradual process. Many luxury brands usually have some “subsidiary cards” with relatively cheap materials and low workmanship requirements. These “subsidiary cards” were first transferred to China. Pratel CEO Bertelli said that as long as the product quality is guaranteed, Prada Manufacturing should be the same as Made in Italy, which is worthy of the trust of the fans. "If the products are produced in Italy, we will mark "Made in Italy" and if they are produced in Turkey, we will also accurately label them. "Of course, we are more concerned about when luxury brands will be able to "provide" China manufacturing to "proactive labeling." “Behind the Big Change” by Li Ning executives made in China On May 24, 2011, Li Ning and two middle management executives resigned. The two executives were Li Ning vice president and Chief Market official Shi Wei and vice president respectively. And Guo Jianxin, chief operating officer, and Wu Xianyong, general manager of Lotto Business Department, and another middle-level director of e-commerce Lin Hao. Li Ning’s stock price continued to fall and the company had issued an announcement in an emergency response. Changes in personnel in the first half of the year were also considered by the industry to be the most serious since the establishment of Li Ning.

On November 13, 2011, Xu Wei, chief product officer of the Li Ning brand officially left the company. This is the second time that Li Ning has experienced executive changes during the year.

Behind: It is reported that with the confirmation of the resignation of Zhang Xiaoyan, the director of the government and the Ministry of External Public Affairs, and the chief product officer Xu Wei, the number of executives that Li Ning has crowned this year has reached five. The turmoil of Li Ning's senior management has not stopped for the first half of 2011. Although Li Ning Company has always claimed that this is a normal personnel change, but through this turmoil, people seem to be able to feel that Li Ning has some serious problems. The internal problem. For two major changes in personnel during the year, the industry has speculated that this may be related to the failure to reshape the Li Ning brand. However, experts believe that not all former executives are based on the same reasons.

An analysis report of JP Morgan Chase said that in 2011, Li Ning's annual revenue will be reduced by 13%, and profit will be regressed by 60%. Anta's income will increase by 22% and its profit will increase by 15%. It is expected that Li Ning will not only be overtaken by Anta in 2011, but may also be caught up by other second-tier brands.

On the one hand, hurry to challenge Nike and Adidas in the international arena, on the one hand, it is difficult to provide the driving force of domestic low-end consumer groups. Li Ning’s next serious challenge is not the decline in orders due to low-level inventory and poor channels, but higher-level strategic issues. It is precisely the problem of low-level means that can still survive, and the high-level decision-making problems may lead to catastrophe. Li Ning needs to think about it.

Frequent fashion is stuck in "quality door"

In April 2011, according to the testing report released by the Beijing Consumers Association, of the 57 samples tested on ZARA, G2000, Guanqi, G-STAR and other brands, 20 samples did not meet the requirements of national standards for all the tested items. Exist in fiber content, color fastness, formaldehyde, pH value and so on. Among them, the fiber content of 6 kinds of samples, including a ZARA brand sample, was inconsistent with the measured value, accounting for 10.5% of the total number of samples. In the same month, ZARA products were all found to be unqualified in the three comparative tests conducted by the Beijing Consumers Association, and ZARA has not made a clear response.

In December 2011, the Shanghai Bureau of Quality Supervision conducted a special supervision and spot check on the quality of casual wear products produced and sold in Shanghai. The results showed that the content of clothing fibers was inconsistent with the labels, including NAUTI-CA, CK JEANS, Well-known brands such as ZARA and Teenie Weenie have the quality of product sampling.

According to the relevant person in charge of the Shanghai Bureau of Quality Supervision, according to the relevant standards, casual wear mainly examines instructions for use, fiber content, formaldehyde content, pH, color fastness to dry rubbing, perspiration fastness, and water fastness , can decompose aromatic amine dyes, odor and other items.

Behind: In recent years, ZARA has become a “regular guest” in the list of unqualified products from industry and commerce and quality inspection departments. According to incomplete statistics, since August 2009, ZARA has fallen into the “quality gate” at least seven times. H&M, which is also a fast fashion brand, is also on the “black list”.

The expansion is too fast to be considered by the industry as the main reason for ZARA's repeated problems. The combination of low prices and rapid development leads to the inevitable result that quality will be reduced.

After frequent quality incidents, ZARA began to be questioned by outsiders about its quality at home and abroad. Although its strong advantage lies in its supply chain management, its expansion in Asia is too fast and back-office management may not keep pace. “Even if we copy Europe to Asia, it will take a certain period of run-in, plus speed and cost. Such pressure may virtually relax some conditions, and there will certainly be some problems in the internal control management level.” Another person in the industry believes that the emergence of “virtual gates” is also related to the positioning of ZARA. ZARA wants to maintain a young fashion and quality brand, but the price positioning can not be too high, because the majority of its consumer groups are college students and young workers to work, so that the company may be sacrificed in quality, or raw materials The cost will definitely increase, leading to higher prices.

Hermès encounters "endorsement"

On June 21st, 2011, Sina Weibo’s netizen named “Guo Mei Mei Baby” received a lot of attention. The 20-year-old girl who claimed to “live in a large villa and open Maserati” was countless “General Manager of the Red Cross Society. When Guo Meimei held high-profile photos of the expensive Hermès bag in front of the public, netizens consistently criticized it. Another thing that happened at the same time as this incident was that Hermès’ popularity among the general public has increased dramatically. That is to say, this brand, which has always been known as “expensive and noble”, was “promoted” after this incident. Before the Mei Mei Mei incident, there may be many people who know LV, but they do not necessarily know that Hermes is more advanced than LV. Especially in some second and third-tier cities, because Hermès is currently only deployed in first-tier cities, people who know about it are even more limited. However, since Ms. Guo took Hermès to show off her wealth, Hermès reached these second and third-tier cities through the various media following the incident of Kwok Mei.

Behind: According to the world's luxury goods association's sales monitoring of Hermès in the last 3 months, after the Meimei event, Hermes sales increased by 7% to 10%. At the same time, some changes have taken place in the Hermes consumer group. First, the number of new consumers has increased significantly, by about 40%. Most of the former Hermès consumers were from first-tier cities. Now, most of the new consumers come from cities in the second and third tier that do not have Hermès stores.

In a sense, because of Mei Mei Mei, Hermès has saved a lot of public relations fees in second and third-tier cities. Such apparent sales promotion may be regarded as "unexpected joy" for Hermès.

Along with Mei-Mei, apart from the increase in sales, there are various kinds of labels that are difficult to erase. CCTV host Ruan Chenggang launched a selection on the microblogging called “Top Ten Vulgar Luxury Brand Rankings”. Hermes is on the list. Ruan Chenggang said: "These brands are the most representative works that show off their wealth."

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